"It was a quiet, cloudy day back at Swell on the mooring in front of the Riou house; Swell was unable to go anywhere while the machine shop fabricated the new motor mounts."
"Although the surf seemed like it would never quit, I could put it off no longer… Swell's bilge was filling with water again; I HAD to find the source of the leak."
"Session after session I gained confidence at this beastly wave. In the afternoons the crowd would thin and the circus of photographers and spectators would run off to find food and shade."