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"Greg Long has charged down the sheer face of a 40-foot wave, but it has broken with such explosiveness that he is devoured by an avalanche of white water.

Embroiled in turbulence and hurtling toward rocks, the San Clemente surfer strives for composure and struggles to climb the leash attached to his 9 1/2 -foot surfboard, hand over fist.

Mavericks, the infamous big-wave surfing venue beyond Pillar Point, already has killed on this late November morning, which marks the arrival of the season's first large swell."

by The Los Angeles Times


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