Swell Forecast & Schedule

Report Date: Wed. September 1, 2010

By forecaster: Austin Gendron: austin@globalsurfreports.com

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Surf Synopsis:

Today (Wednesday) we’ve got small southern hemi filling in and increasing wind swell.  Another southern hemi swell is due for Friday, before wind swell jumps up for the weekend.  Could get a bit gusty out there Saturday and Sunday.

Recommended Board:

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Buoy Readings:
46059 California Buoy – 6 @ 8 seconds
46212 Humboldt Bay – 5 feet @ 9 seconds from 323 degrees
46014 Pt Arena Buoy – 8 feet @ 7 seconds
46026 San Francisco Buoy – 6 ft @ 10 seconds from 312 degrees
46042 Monterey – 7 ft @ 10 seconds from 319 degrees
46028 Cape San Martin – 6 feet @ 10 seconds from 310 degrees

The CDIP Buoy 157 is showing, NW periods dominantly about 10 seconds from 310 degrees, while southern hemi swell is showing up at 17 seconds from 170 degrees.

Currently most Northern California’s stand out west-facing breaks are seeing surf around waist high to chest high+. While Central Coast breaks are in the knee to waist high range.  Stand out south facing spots should be seeing surf around knee high to waist high.

Water temps are in low to mid 50’s through most of Northern and Central California, Crescent City showing 51, Pt Arena 52.  The San Francisco buoy is around 54 and further south Monterey is seeing 56 degrees and the Cape San Martin Buoy is at 57 degrees.
 

Wind Outlook:

Today (Wednesday) high pressure continues to bring strong northerly gradients to the Northern California coast.  The Central Coast is seeing lighter conditions, but still dominantly northerly gradients.  Gradients should continue to be strong through the north at least till Thursday evening.  The strongest winds will be well off the coast and there should continue to be an onshore surface gradient along the immediate coast.  A shortwave low will bring some relief Thursday night through Friday, before the gradients pick back up over the weekend with the arrival of another long wave trough approaches for the weekend.  Gradients over the weekend could be quite strong reaching gale force along some parts of the coast.  Stay tuned.

 

Weather Outlook:

Today (Wednesday) skies are pretty clear thanks to some northerly winds along the coast and high pressure.  Warm weather is expected along the coast, which should continue through Thursday.  Marine layer should return Thursday night as a shortwave low starts to break down the ridge of high pressure along the coast.  The marine layer could mix out a bi ton Saturday as strong gradients return to the coast, but by late in the weekend it will start to deepen again.
 

Swell Forecast and Schedule:

Today we’re seeing the moderate to small sized southern hemi swell from 179 degrees filling in with 17-second periods mixing with some shorter period swell at around 12-second periods leftover from the last major swell.  Windswell continues to pick up and should peak on Thursday relaxing a little bit Thursday evening and Friday.  

Beyond that it looks like more wind swell and another pulse of small size groundswell from around 172 degrees on the 3rd of September.  Periods are calculated around 17 seconds from a steep 170 to 175 degrees.  Wind swell is expected to escalate over the weekend as well peaking late Sunday, with short period seas and strong onshore winds.

Long-range models aren’t looking too promising as of right now.

Stay tuned for more updates through the week…

Here's what to expect on a day-to-day basis this week:
Today (Wednesday the 1st) as new southern hemi swell fills in with small knee to waist high+ waves, there could also be an increase in wind swell through the day.  Size isn’t expected to be great, but there could be some waist to head high surf at stand out west facing breaks.  

Thursday the 2nd it looks like minimal surf from the south, possibly some forerunners late in the day with 17-second periods.  Wind swell holds in the chest to head high range.

Friday the 3rd groundswell looks like it could pick up to knee to waist high with periods around 16 seconds from 170 to 175 degrees.  Wind swell continues to be in the chest to head high range at stand out breaks.

Saturday the 4th groundswell holds around knee to waist high backing off through the day.  Wind swell could start to pick up ahead of the next long-wave trough due for the weekend. 

Sunday the 5th wind swell picks up to around head high to overhead+ at stand out breaks.  Southern hemi swell dies off. 

Monday the 6th wind swell continues to pick up.  There could be an early morning peak in the range of overhead+ to a couple feet overhead.

Tuesday the 7th wind swell holds in the overhead+ range possibly larger through parts of Northern California along the exposed coast.

Beyond that it looks like more wind swell, but nothing much from the southern hemisphere.  Stay tuned…

That's it for today, be safe, and get in the water!

~ Austin