Michelle Burrez caught the first one. His little brother was on the second. The third rolled in and Raimana called the boys off.
"Heeeeeeeeeeep! This is yours, Liz. Paddle, GO, PADDLE HARD! TOWARDS THE REEF!" He yelled. I did everything he said, totally committed. Got under it. Made the drop. No tube but a big roar...and in another instant I went launching out the now familiar exit ramp.
"Good." He said as I paddled back, unable to contain my smile. "Now come here again. Sit here. I gonna push you this time. A bigger one."
I followed his instructions.
"Let's move out. Okay, a little more. Little more...more. THERE."
We were sitting way west and way outside. I couldn't imagine how we were going to catch a wave there, but I certainly wasn't going to argue with this Tahitian "Water King." I felt a bit more nervous now.
"Breath. Don't worry, you'll get in early." He cooed.
I felt selfish, like he should get a wave before me, but I'd seen how patient he was. He'd wait for nearly an hour sometimes and give all the other waves away, and then stroke casually into the best wave of the day, get frighteningly barreled, and then paddle back to his boat. It seemed like he truly enjoyed sharing and teaching, and I appreciated every moment of his advice and direction and encouragement. I knew this was a RARE moment, with his guidance and the small crowd. I had to embrace this chance -
And then it came. A big west set wave. The mere sight of it almost took my breath away.
"Okay, now, NOW, this one! HEY BOYS, HEY, IT's LIZ! Okay, girl, turn your board, turn your board, paddle past me to the inside. THE INSIDE! NOW GO GO GO!!"
I DEFINITELY hadn't caught one this big yet - and I was DEFINITELY afraid - and I DEFINITELY needed to make this drop or there would be harsh consequences - I put my trust in Raimana, put my head down, and paddled like hell.
He followed closely behind, until the mass of water surged up below us. I felt his hand press against the flat of my foot and with a strong shove, he launched me over the lip of the beast--I could NEVER have caught that wave on my 6'4" without his push. I was on my feet before the drop was too critical, with a locomotive of water behind me. When the wave sucked vertical, I held my rail and 'bonsai'-ed down the face, the lip grinding down behind me. It crashed in a thunder and rocketed me across its deep blue face. I made the safety zone, drifting for a few moments in total shock and then again came my un-containable smile. I couldn't believe it. I was alive and that was incredible!!!!! I paddled back up to thank him. He could see the gleam in my eye. I couldn't explain my gratitude, but I think he felt it.
Raimana, thank you from the bottom of my surf-loving heart. I'll NEVER forget that wave!
*He continued to push me into sets until the crowd came back out...I went back to Swell glowing brighter than a Christmas tree!
Liz Clark sails solo around the world on her 40-foot sailboat, Swell, in search of people, places and waves. She sends us travel updates, stories and photos several times a week.
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